Paris prides itself on its women s haute couture industry which dates back some 150 years. But Britain holds all the aces when it comes to menswear. Tailored man: Pete Doherty in a fitted suit Savile Row the menswear equivalent of haute couture which can trace its origins back more than three hundred years, went on show in Paris this evening for the first time.
In a unique example of sartorial entente cordiale, the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture and Great British Bespoke, joined forces to showcase more than two centuries of high-tailoring, in the French capital. The exhibition, which covers masculine style from George 111 and the Duke of Wellington to Bryan Ferry and Pete Doherty, was officially opened at the British Ambassador s residence on the Faubourg St Honore at a reception co-hosted by the British Ambassador, Sir Peter Westmacott, and M. Didier Grumbach, president of the Chambre Syndicale.
The exhibition features the work of 12 Savile Row tailors whose customer list, if combined, would represent a fashion history of Britain and an A-list of kings, prime ministers and celebrities. Shown on mannequins in the grand salons and galleries of the residence, originally acquired by the Duke of Wellington from Napoleon s sister, in 1814, the exhibition features original court regalia, military uniforms, morning suits and formal dress. Designs by Ede Ravenscroft (est.
1689) include the late Duke of Norfolk s court dress as Earl Marshall, while those by Henry Poole Co, est. 1806, include state livery for George 111, uniforms for Napoleon 111 and the financier, J. Pierpoint Morgan s court dress for Queen Victoria.
These contrast with the black sequined and white sequined evening suits made for Bryan Ferry s 2006/2007 tour, by Richard Anderson, the bespoke black cocktail suit made for Pete Doherty, lead singer of Babyshambles, by Richard James in 2006, and the black-beaded peacock evening coat Huntsman tailored for the designer Alexander McQueen in 2002. Nearby is the morning suit, controversially worn to Royal Ascot with a striped shirt and polka-dot bow-tie, by the then Prince of Wales, later Edward 111, in the 1920 s by Davies Son, while a black and white portrait shows the American designer, Tom Ford, wearing his tailcoat made by Anderson Sheppard in 2005. Two mannequins, standing side by side, wear the His n Hers cream, three-piece suits made by Edward Sexton of Tommy Nutter, for the wedding of Lord and Lady Montagu in 1974, a bridal trend that was also donned by Mick Jagger and Bianca Jagger for their marriage.
Other examples of military uniforms and formal dress come from Gieves Hawkes, who added the new Prime Minister, Gordon Brown, to their made-to-measure client list two months ago. Mr Brown joins a distinguished list who have been dressed by Gieves and Hawkes, including the Duke of Wellington, Sir Winston Churchill, Sir Anthony Eden and and Sir John Major. The exhibition, curated by James Sherwood, is expected to go on show in London and Tokyo next year.
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